April 29, 2008

Monday I was invited with my neighbours Mike and Roz to Agyrula’s house for lunch. Agyrula is the ‘Muktar’s’ (Mayor’s) sister. I had met her a few weeks ago at Mike and Roz’, and was delighted to be invited to such an important family celebration. And what a celebration; you had to see it to believe it. We started with Zivania (a very strong local spirit) then introductions were made (I never did meet every person – it is such a large extended family). My greetings of ‘Kalo Paska’ (Happy Easter) and of course the response to ‘Christos Anesti’ of ‘Alithos Anesti’ were met with shouts of approval and much praise. Then we sat down at a very long table and the food started coming. I know I have mentioned a Meze before, but this surpassed them all. There was lamb, chicken, pork, and rabbit; all done on a wood fire, plus all the trimmings including of course the traditional village (Greek) salad. Dessert took up its own table, and boxes of chocolates and Easter eggs were also sent round. More Zivania, wine, beer etc. and you never knew how many you had as your glass was always full. And of course, every time someone raised a glass they would say very loudly ‘ena proti’ which means the first one (no matter how many they may have had). It was a very gregarious affair. Agyrula’s three daughters and the Muktar’s three daughters and the girl cousins and their mothers all helped, while the sons, husbands and fathers (after they cooked the meat) sat and conversed and sang (apparently they started with religious songs, moved on to local favourites, then got into political ones). Agyrula’s husband kept the glasses full and prompted everyone to have more to eat. Then the tables were moved aside and the dancing started – and just like in the movies, glasses and plates were smashed to the concrete as an encouragement to who ever was dancing – at least we were outside under a lovely thatch covering. Every once in a while someone would surreptitiously sweep the broken bits to the side and everything just carried on. I tried to hide in the back to watch, but that was not going to happen. So . . . as long as you dance with your hands in the air and keep step to the music, it doesn’t matter what you do. It was very hard to extricate ourselves, but since Mike is our teacher, and our Greek lessons started at 4:15, he and Roz and I finally had to make a run for it. It was probably a good thing we had the lesson, or I don’t know when I would have got home. I must admit though, that I enjoyed it thoroughly and could have stayed a bit longer.

After my Greek lessons (which I think were actually helped by the wine), I went back to the village square to watch a play put on by the youth. I wish I knew the outline of the story beforehand, as my Greek is still far too limited to do anything other than pick up a word or two. It was a very lively performance though, and worth watching. The setting was a well in the countryside, plus (once they removed the well and the trees) a kitchen. I think it had something to do with a young man vying for a girl (the usual stuff). Anyway, that pretty much wrapped up the Easter celebrations. Today seems fairly quiet here – I think a lot of people will need a day or two to recuperate.

I told Dale that he will have to get next Easter off, which shouldn’t be a problem, since most of his co-workers would have celebrated last month (but I guess I will need to look up an Orthodox calendar to even see when it is next year). Today I spent over an hour trying to write a thank you note in Greek. I sure hope I said the right words – the tenses were tough, but I am sure they will forgive me as long as I didn’t insult anyone.

So, Kalo Pasko to you all. It was great fun putting it all down; another of those great memories we are storing up on out here.

Love,

Laurel

April 27, 2008

What a great experience Easter has been so far. On Saturday evening a bonfire was lit behind the church with an effigy of Judas top centre. Now this wasn’t your ordinary everyday normal toast your marshmallows kind of bonfire – this was a ‘make sure all the other villages on the island can see’ kind of bonfire. I was really sorry that I didn’t bring my camera. Besides being at least ten times the size of a huge bonfire, you had to move several meters back every few minutes so you wouldn’t melt. And Judas was toast in minutes. Unfortunately, firecrackers were extremely popular and went from shockingly loud to painfully loud; I could have done without that. Next on the agenda was the church service, which funny enough was in Greek (and chanted too). Then Papas Savvas (the priest) lit the people’s candles in the front, and the flame was passed around to everyone else. That is when you had to say ‘Christos Anesti’ and/or respond ‘Alithos Anesti’ (Christ is risen – Truly he has risen). I am sure the whole village was there. People finally started to disperse around 12:30, so I was home by 1am.

On Sunday, the games began at 7pm in the village square. My friend Linda (from Kouklia) and I had a kebab at the local Taverna with some other friends from my Greek class, and watched the proceedings. They had the usual egg and spoon races, sack races, tug of war and ‘board races’ where a child stands directly behind another and they strap their left feet to a 2’ - 2x4 and their right feet to another. Several of the Cypriot adults participated as well (although there was some good-humoured cheating done by them). It was great fun. Then the entertainment started. First the younger children did a couple of traditional dances, then an older group. These were followed by some teenage boys doing a ‘break dance’. When this was printed in the leaflet that was delivered to all residents (and a valiant attempt was made at translating), I was very skeptical. I am sure glad I was able to watch. These boys were amazing. It was so well choreographed – it must have taken months of practise. And the four older boys (15 – 18) gave the two younger ones (6 – 9) high-fives whenever they performed. I was so impressed by their energy and enthusiasm (actually I was exhausted just watching). What a delightful experience. Two girls followed this performance with some hip-hop (again very well choreographed) then a large group of older youths did several traditional dances, some of which had stories attached. When they were done, they came out into the crowd and invited us all to dance. Very welcoming and fun.

More to follow . . .

Love,

Laurel

April 25, 2008

I don't know where the time goes (two weeks has just disappeared). Anyway, just a little note to let you know that we are all alive and well. As Dale has been away, I haven’t done any sightseeing; instead, I have been catching up on all the chores I don’t get around to when he is home.

This weekend however seems to be something to write about. It is the Orthodox Easter, and our little village has many activities planned to celebrate. Apparently Easter is a much bigger deal here than Christmas. Here is a little excerpt from our local paper:

Easter is never on the same date each year, as it is celebrated on the first Sunday following the full moon of the spring equinox, which this year falls on the 27^th of April. It is tradition that everything has to look clean and new for Easter, so the week before, housewives will spring clean, pain and whitewash walls (it is still a patriarchal society).

The Holy Week – Palm Sunday – 20^th of April. A procession is held around the church with an icon of Christ which is to commemorate his entry into Jerusalem. You will notice that a lot of church doors will be decorated with palm leaves. People will take olive leaves to church which will be left there for 40 days. They will then be taken home and used for burning in the “kapnistiri” (a small burner) which helps to keep the evil eye away.

Monday – Most people will begin a very strict fasting and will go to church mass every evening.

Tuesday – This day devoted to scripture reading and going to church.

Wednesday – A day of anointing the faithful with holy oil.

Thursday – A day of egg-dyeing. Traditionally they were dyed red using a special root called rizari.

Friday – Throughout the day, everyone will take flowers to the church, so that the young girls can decorate the “Epitafio”. Later in the evening, the “Epitafios” (translated as Funeral or Good Friday Procession – but I think it means a cross) will pass through the street in solemn procession, leaving from the church in an easterly direction and returning from the west after going round the village or town square.

Saturday – There is a sermon in the morning, during which the doors and chairs are banged and the chandeliers and candle holders are shaken. This is to signify that Christ is no longer in his grave. Traditionally, housewives bake their flaounes (a kind of cheese filled bread) on this day. In the afternoon, bonfires will be lit in the churchyard which represents the burning of Judas, the betrayer of Christ. The sermon of resurrection will begin at 23:00 when everyone goes to church with a candle. At midnight, the priest will proclaim that Christ has risen and the congregation will light their candle and greet each other with “Christos Anesti” (Christ has risen), and the other will answer “Alithos Anesti” (indeed he has risen”. Families will then go home to eat their mayiritsa or avgolemoni soup.

Sunday – There will be a church service around 11:00 and after that, the celebrations will begin. The villages will normally celebrate in the traditional manner with festive programmes consisting of dancing, games and singing, being held either in the churchyard or the village square. Most families will gather with relatives and friends to roast their lamb on the spit.

I will let you know how it all turns out in our little village. My neighbour Mike, who is also my Greek teacher, has been to most of the village planning meetings, and has made up a program specific to Kouklia. I will let you know how it all turns out. Apparently, firecrackers are a hazard to watch out for!

Talk to you soon.

Love,

Laurel

April 10, 2008

Continued from April 9
. . . Salamis is believed to go back to the 11th century B.C. The ruins in our photos date from the Romans. The extent of the site is mind boggling. It certainly made for a very enjoyable and enlightening walk.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salamis,_Cyprus
We then headed back home through Famagusta, which still has a wasteland from the war in 1974. Hotels and buildings are derelict and standing right beside the inhabited area. Nothing can be done about it, since the Turks are using the area as a bargaining tool for negotiations, and the Greek Cypriots won't bargain, as they say it was theirs in the first place. It is a very sad state of affairs, but one that seems impossible to arbitrate since both sides have suffered greatly. In the meantime, they are living peacefully side-by-side, and there is a lot to be said for that.
We came back across the border at a British Base, and felt the familiarity of the south side. It was a good experience, and there is still much to see and do in the north, so hopefully we will attempt it again later. And here I leave off the tale, as I return to my reality of laundry etc. It is still a pretty good reality though, as it is now 27C with a forecast of 30C for the next week. Dale just finished painting the garage floor, and had a swim. I think I will still wait for the water to warm up a few more degrees before I jump in.
Take care and keep a list of the things you especially want to do when you visit. We will keep checking it all out for you.
Love,
Laurel

April 9, 2008

Continued from April 8
. . . We decided to get up earlier on Wednesday to make the trek out to the Karpas Peninsula. We had a recommendation from a lady in Bellapais to stop in at the Botanical Gardens. The owner has planted it all himself, and has a little restaurant and swimming pool for his guests to use. He rents it out for weddings and parties too. What a lovely venue.
We then stopped at the last of the Byzantine castles up in the mountains which is called Kantara. It was a bit hazy, but you could still see to the tip- water on the left, right and center. Thank goodness there weren't as many stairs as Buffavento! Apparently they signalled each other with fires when an invasion was spotted. Certainly not worth the hassle in my opinion, but amazing architecture and beauty.
http://www.cyprus44.com/famagusta/kantara-castle.asp
Then onward to the peninsula. Wild donkeys abound - but apparently very unpredictable so photos only from a distance. Near the tip is the Apostolos Andreas Monastery built by Barnabas when he and Paul were over bringing Christianity to Cyprus. There is also a very large sandy beach which is never crowded, with a lovely restaurant overlooking it.
It took most of the day, so we stayed near Salamis to be ready for the next day's adventure.
To be continued . . .

April 8, 2008

Continued from April 7
. . . Ready for the wind - here we are a Buffavento.
We met some young people on the path on their way down from the castle, and they tried very hard (jokingly we thought) to discourage us from making the climb. We had a good laugh then continued on our way. They weren't entirely kidding! Thirty minutes later (at least), and many steps up, we made it to the top. It was worth it in the end. Fantastic views and much conjecture on why the heck anyone would want to build it let alone defend it. Can you see the car in the picture?
http://www.northcyprusonline.com/North-Cyprus-Online-Sightseeing-Kyrenia-Buffavento-Castle.php
Then back to Kyrenia for some fabulous swordfish and a local brandy.
To be continued . . .

April 7, 2008

Continued from April 6
. . . The next day was so windy we decided not to do the next castle yet (especially since it is called Buffavento!). So, off we went to Bellapais Abbey. Besides being an historic relic it was made even more famous by being mentioned in a Cypriot book entitled "Bitter Lemons of Cyprus". Bellapais is a lovely village and we walked by the author's house and had fresh squeezed lemonade at a bistro owned and run by a lady who knew him.
After that we headed into Kyrenia to see the castle in the harbour, which they had to kick us out of at closing time. It also housed a museum which contains artifacts from a neolithic village near Vrysi on the coast, and a shipwreck dated around 300bc.
http://www.cyprus44.com/kyrenia/kyrenia-castle.asp
We had an early dinner at the Marina, much to Dale's delight.
To be continued . . .

April 6, 2008

Hi everyone. Well, I managed to get Dale away from his phone and computer for most of the last five days. We headed up to Kyrenia in the Turkish occupied zone which encompasses about a third of the island of Cyprus. Crossing the border wasn't difficult - all you need is time and money. We got our visas, then had to pay for extra car insurance, as ours was not valid there. It was different on the Turkish side; not as prosperous looking - more sparse and run-down. But the people were lovely and very accommodating.
On the way into Kyrenia we stopped at an old Byzantine fort dating sometime between the 7th and 10th centuries, built as a Bastion against the raiding Arabs. Great exercise, lots of stairs - but certainly well worth it. http://www.cypnet.co.uk/ncyprus/city/kyrenia/castle/sthilarion/index.html
We stayed at the Almond Village Resort which is run by such a nice family. The father built it and still works on it, and the children (adults) run the different areas - restaurant, reception, housekeeping, etc. They were very helpful and gave us great tips on what to see and do, and how to get there. Our little bungalow was very comfortable. It was still a bit too chilly to use the pool, but in the summer it would make a great get-a-way as apparently it is never as crowded in the north as it is in the south.
I am going to have to make this into a four or five part blog, since we have so many great photos to show you. We are going to have to come up with another idea on how to post more, since over this last holiday we took about 400.
To be continued . . .

April 4, 2008

Good news, Joel arrived home safely last night. He said the trip was well worth it and now I will try and fill you in on the rest of what we did while he was here.
In Paphos the Anglican services are held at a 500 year old church called Ayia Kyriaki (or St. Kyriaki). In the grounds are the remains of a Franciscan Monastery, another Basilica and St. Paul's Pillar. It was here that Apostle Paul, on his visit with Barnabas, was bound and given 39 lashes as a punishment for preaching Christianity. After this, he managed to convert the governor to Christianity, making Cyprus the first Christian state in the world.
Still in Paphos, near the harbour are the remains of a Roman settlement with superb mosaics. The site is still being excavated, but is open to the public for viewing.
Right on the edge of the harbour is a Byzantine fort, that has been rebuilt many times by many different cultures and is now a museum.
We also spent a day in Lemesos. Dale and Stephen had two meetings to attend, so Joel, Cathy and I went to a Medieval Fort museum. Unfortunately, we couldn't take pictures of the exhibits which were fascinating. After a lovely lunch of spanikopita (spinach pie), we returned to Kouklia for a nice cold beer by the pool.
After dinner out at one of our local Tavernas, we turned in for an early night, as Joel's flight was at 5am out of Larnaca. It was a lovely visit, and so nice to be able to show off this lovely island.
Hope all is well with you. We think of you often and really appreciate you keeping in touch.
Love,
Laurel

http://www.kypros.org/Cyprus/paphos.html