July 31st, 2007

Cannes, Cote D’Azur, France – beautiful, absolutely beautiful - the sea, the beaches, the Croisette (the promenade along the shore), the scenery, the sun, the architecture, the food, the shops (not all of which are exorbitant), the winding streets and alleys, the people. This morning Dale and I had a wonderful breakfast out on the sidewalk, then found our way to the 12th Century fortress and L”Eglise d’Esperance (The Church of Hope), which is in remarkable shape with many exquisite paintings and artifacts. The bells peal regularly and are heavenly.
At noon, we met Adam and Natalie down in the lobby since he and Dale had to work. They got to fly together on the CJ3 with Adam as Captain (Dale was delighted to be able to fly with him). Natalie and I decided to make the best of it, and did some marathon shopping (I was delighted to get some fashion advice). It’s amazing in this trendy tourist town, that there are bargains to be found by the very discerning. We had great fun, and after taking a break at the pool, headed out again, winding up our day with chocolate crepes for dinner. My idea of fun!
Love,
Laurel

Cairo to Cannes

Just a short note to say that Laurel and I are flying commercial from Cairo to Cannes tomorrow. There I will be working with Adam for two weeks. Natalie is coming down from England as well, so while the boys are cruising up and down the Med. at FL 450, the ladies will just have to stay out of mischief. More to follow. For now check out the area...
http://www.sofitel.com/sofitel/fichehotel/gb/sof/0591/fiche_hotel.shtml

July 26, 2007

Our last few hours at the JW were spent at the pool. Upon returning to our room, we heard a calm voice from the side of the lobby "I'm afraid I haven't kept up with your Blog". It was Ian Sutton, who did not know we were in the hotel, let alone in Cairo. We met Ian in Winnipeg during a military airshow 20 years ago. Ian is now a British Airways pilot who lives outside of London, but has managed to stay in touch all these years. After trading stories over a couple pints of beer, we were all still amazed at yet another precious example of how small the world really is.
The power was off in Ma'adi for a couple of hours today, which seems to happen everytime the temperature goes over 40 degrees. I hope it doesn't happen tomorrow too, since they are expecting it to reach 44.
Tomorrow! We will be out of the hotel, and in David and Jacqueline's new apartment. All the appliances are in and hooked up except the oven and stove top. Oh well, I guess we will have to eat out until that happens. And I will have to find an internet cafe, since the phone won't be hooked up for a couple of weeks. Good thing for cell phones.
Next week Dale will be flying with Adam in Cannes, so I am planning on spending a couple of days there with them. I promise to send pictures.
Love,
Laurel

July 21, 22, 23 . . ., 2007

THE MOVE - Here we thought we would be experts by now, but this is a whole different kettle of fish. Unfortunately their idea of ready doesn’t match mine. I spent two days cleaning the kitchen, so as to be able to put things in cupboards, while Rupa (the maid) worked solid in the bedrooms. The dust is so thick, you can wipe it up and it is back 10 minutes later. It is also so fine; you can sweep forever and not pick it up. Even the vacuum hasn’t got a chance. You have to wipe it up with a damp cloth that you rinse out with every swipe. Then there are the workmen. The air conditioner didn’t get hooked up until today, and three hours later they tell me that we can only use two of the eight units because they only have temporary power in the building until it is finished (who knows when). The appliance guys came yesterday, but forgot to come today to finish, so we only have a fridge hooked up. The guy for the four hot water tanks did come today and got those working. Tomorrow (day three), the movers will finish packing up the old apartment and will at least set up the bed and some furniture. I don’t think I will move the cats over until Tuesday so that most of the traffic in and out is done. I have started unpacking the kitchen boxes, and now I know why there are so many. I opened a two cube, and each glass was wrapped in paper as you would expect – then wrapped in a cylinder made up of a 1’ x 3’ piece of corrugated cardboard, then wrapped in more paper. Which means that one box holds approximately 12 – 14 glasses. Unwrapping will take forever. Plus I have to think of where to put everything. Unfortunately, I didn’t study the old kitchen enough to be comfortable with my decisions, plus the layout is completely different. So, unpacking the kitchen will probably take me another week. Good thing I don’t have to do the whole house. So, I am still hoping we can move in in a couple of days “insh’Allah” (God willing). That word covers everything that happens or doesn’t happen around here. I am starting to believe it actually means that what ever you are hoping for won’t happen, or at least not as you would like! Do I sound cynical already? I’ll call it skeptical. Even the driver who we are using to take us back and forth between the apartments has been an hour late three out of four mornings.
But really, I’m not complaining. The new apartment is beautiful. Talk about not knowing you are in an apartment. We are on the third floor of the building, and there are three floors to the apartment. Very good exercise since the elevators aren’t working yet. The old apartment is on the sixth floor, and I am used to that so no problem. Anyway, the main floor is the kitchen, living room, dining room and a lovely big square balcony. The second floor has the bedrooms and the laundry room, and the top floor is the office with a door to the pool (which probably won’t be ready while we are here). The outside of the building is a peach colour and there is marble everything. So, really, in a few days, we will get it habitable and probably even comfortable. Meanwhile, I have to learn my way around this end of Ma’adi, which should be easier with what I already know. So, there you go; a little taste of some of the realities of living in Egypt. But the people are so nice, and they do try. We're just learning patience.
Love,
Laurel

July 19 - 20, 2007

In order for you not to think that we spent the day at the Sakkara Beer Factory, I am spelling the name of the pyramids the old way – Saqqara. These are the oldest pyramids, built when they were still deciding on the design and angles to use. The step pyramid as you can see from the pictures is aptly named. While there, we were able to go inside the tombs as well as one of the pyramids. Because of the Rosetta Tablet, much more is known about hieroglyphics and what they mean. These particular ones are from the 4th Dynasty, around 2400 BC. We were actually able to see and touch carvings and sculptures from 4000 years ago! And almost every wall of every tomb (and there were many of them) was written on from top to bottom and side to side; all depicting the care of the bodies in the afterlife.
From there it was a short drive to Memphis (no, not Tennessee), to see the largest statue of Ramses II. The photos don’t do it justice. Not only is it a beautiful work of art, it is a colossal work of art. Memphis was the original capitol city for Egypt. Not much is left except a few ruins and occasionally a few small treasures surface.
The area is also famous for handmade carpet factories. This is definitely an art and a trade combined. We started in the back, where the training and work happens. It was very interesting and we learned a lot about the various types and styles of carpet. We were then taken into the store. As this is part of the custom of purchasing a carpet, it is in good taste to accept a beverage (of any kind). Anyway, they press you until you choose something. Once you are settled in your seat with your drink, they begin laying out hundreds of carpets for you to choose from. One in particular caught our eye, which was a small silk one in very rich tones. Having no idea what is needed as yet for our home in Cyprus, we were very limited in our choices. Then came the negotiating. Not being connoisseurs of carpets, we actually left the store and went to another to get a better idea of prices and quality. I am not sure if this is done, but we felt better and were able to negotiate better (with the help of our driver Mostafa). I am sure we paid more than necessary, but I am happy with our small purchase. It was worth the entertainment.
Thankfully today has been a bit quieter. We went to church and I introduced Dale to some of the people I have met. Incredibly, the Ma'adi Community Church is home to over 62 different nationalities. Today was a prime example of the miracle of our global community. Three Chinese Christians were baptised. They spoke no English and yet they were able to find a Chinese speaking bible study group in Cairo. Their host pastor and interpreter's helped read their testimonies, all which were very moving.
The rest of the day has been catching up on work for Dale, and after my nap (we have been having early mornings because of the heat) I am catching up with all of you. Tomorrow is the big move, so I will let you know in a couple of days how that went.
Love,
Laurel

Touring The Christian Churches of Cairo

Virgin Mary Church on the Nile where Holy Family travelled
Same Church
St. Michael Greek Orthodox Church in Old Cairo


Mosaic in Coptic Church entryway

July 17 - 18, 2007

Tuesday I left Dale working at the hotel and headed into Ma’adi. I met Jen and Fiona, and we went to see Shrek 3. I loved it, and we had a lovely coffee afterwards, but I sure missed Joel. He would have remembered way more funny lines, and would have had us in stitches all over again. I checked in on the cats again before heading out to the Cell Group. I even managed to find my way there and back by myself, with a little help from the map. What a good feeling.
Wednesday we headed into Ma’adi again for a visit to the apartment and after giving the cats loads of attention, decided to check out the new apartment that we are supposed to be helping move into on Saturday. I am still hopeful, but Dale isn’t. Wish us luck that it is ready. The hotel is lovely, but I spend an awful lot of time going back and forth. We then popped into the Virgin Mary Coptic Church which is on the Cornich (Nile Riverbank). Its claim to fame is that Mary, Joseph and Jesus visited there while in Ma’adi. We lit candles and said prayers for all our family and friends. It was very moving. Afterwards we visited Coptic Cairo. This is such a unique place. It houses a Synagogue, a Greek Orthodox Church and three Coptic Churches within its walls. It is believed that Mary, Joseph and Jesus spent a month there in a cave that we were able to go into. Abu Serga: The Church of St. Sergius http://touregypt.net/featurestories/serga.htm The enclosed well was used by them as well, and is currently used for Baptism’s and Holy Water.

It is really moving to see and touch such an important part of our history. The Hanging Church (4th Century) – named because it was built on top of the Water Gate of Roman Babylon – is just down the road. http://www.phouka.com/pharaoh/egypt/photos/cairo/coptic/00coptic.html Artifacts usually only seen in Museums are hung on the walls or sitting out in the open, as they are still being used. Phenomenal. We were then treated to Egyptian Tea by our guide in a small walled in garden behind one of the shops. Lots of local flavour.
More to come tomorrow.
Love,
Laurel

July 14 - 16, 2007

Back in Cairo. Back at the JW. Back to UNreality. Not having a problem with it!
And it will last for one more week. The home we are minding is in the process of moving to another apartment, and it is half packed up. I still go over every day to spend time with the cats, but we are back to the JW to sleep. The moving date was supposed to be tomorrow, but as things usually happen here, the new apartment isn’t quite ready. Actually, when I had a look at it yesterday, I couldn’t believe that they were still saying it would be ready on time. So today we called again, and sure enough, they still have much to do and Thursday is good, but Saturday would be better. Fortunately, the owner of the moving company is used to this happening, and will be ready again later in the week. Unfortunately, everything but the kitchen is packed up, so we can’t stay there.
So life is very interesting, as daily I see the two lives co-exist. Besides the obvious decadence versus poverty, I have Ma’adi clothes, and JW clothes. I couldn’t comfortably wear shorts or sundresses in Ma’adi, but it is totally acceptable/standard at the JW.

That being the case, they put on a bus to go to the City Stars shopping center. This is a very westernized mall - with prices to match. What is hard to believe is that no one seems to wear the western-style clothes that are being displayed. It is about seven stories high, with everything a mall would have including a movie theatre. I did find a Ma'adi skirt to replace the one that shrunk in the wash (honest), and a pair of chunky sandals (can you believe they're back in fashion?). Obviously they weren't the higher fashion, as they were reasonably priced.
Other than that, not much is happening until the weekend. We are hoping to get to a museum or something this week, but we do have to stick close by to keep the move on track. Dale should also get a phone permanently installed on his ear, as he continues to work on scheduling and hiring of crews. It is nice to have him around, but he is keeping busy.

I think I am finally caught up on the news. Hope you are all well and happy.

Love,

Laurel

July 12 weekend

El Gouna – hard to believe such a place exists. First there was the Red Sea lapping on the shores of a barren desert, and then there was El Gouna. It was built as a resort town and that’s what it is – with 16 thousand inhabitants. There is now an international school here, and most of the amenities required to support the locals who maintain the resorts. http://www.elgouna.com/
To get here was interesting. Thank goodness David had a phone number for Fast Link since all the Egypt Air flights were sold out. Dale was and still is unable to find Fast Link on the internet, and we had to go to an obscure apartment in Cairo to pick-up the ticket. The airplane is a Saab 340, and I got the last seat. It may have had something to do with Friday and Saturday being the weekend and 40+ degrees out.
Dinner was at the Marina at a Moroccan Restaurant. The owner came over and let us know which items we had to try for a real Moroccan flavour, and he did an excellent job. Sorry I can’t name the dishes, but you must give it a try sometime. Everything was marvelous.
The most famous beach in El Gouna for Kite Surfers is Mangroovy Beach – a mere 10 minute ride in a Tuk Tuk – if you dare. While Dale was getting dunked several times during his lesson, along with David and Stephen, Cathy, Steven and I sat in the bar and watched. The seafood chowder was the best ever, and the mixed

(click on the photos to get a closer view)

fruit drinks were all made with fresh fruit – mango, strawberry, honeydew, orange, guava, passion fruit etc. poured in layers in a tall glass. Beautiful. Oh yes, Dale did quite well, but will need another lesson or two to be proficient – I will have to go again sometime to keep an eye on him (I hope).
We went to the Marina again for dinner on Friday, and this is their usual night for a Street Festival. A stage was set up and a band of five lovely Latin American singers and musicians entertained us with their vast repertoire, interspersed with a Belly Dancer and a Flame Dancer. Most of the restaurants have their tables down by the water, and serve BBQ. We had salads, roast vegetables, rice, potatoes, quail, chicken, steak and a kind of sausage they just refer to as shish kebab. What a feast. Oh yes, and all the beer, wine and water you can drink. And you never need a sweater – until you go into the hotel!
Dale’s Kite Surfing Instructor Thomas was booked Saturday morning, so we just watched for a while before he had to go get ready for his flight. When I arrived to check in for my flight, there was a thatched roof waiting area and that was it. But the plane departed with me on it, so all was well. Back to Cairo . . .

Love,

Laurel

(the camel is on the beach at the Movenpick where we stayed)

(click on the photos to get a closer view)

July 11, 2007

Where to start? So much has happened in the last couple of days, I had best keep things in the order they started. Yesterday, after they gym I met Cathy for lunch, then Jen called and met us for coffee. When Cathy left, Jen and I walked around Road 9, and she showed me down alleys that I didn’t even know were there. We went into shops frequented by locals and I found a whole new world. It was intriguing.
I then had to hurry back, and get ready to go out to a Cell Group I had been invited to. A lovely young lady named Adium from Ethiopia (who is trying to emigrate to Canada) met me and we took a taxi over (60 cents), since we were a bit late. It was a lovely group. They started out with some singing; Jessica played the guitar. After a prayer, Adium posed a question for discussion, then we closed with more singing and prayers. There were two ladies from Korea, Chongya and Kyonghe, Sandy from England, Adium and myself. Many are still away for the summer. We walked back and I found that more people are out at ten at night than at ten in the morning. The street was bustling with men, women and children.
Wednesday afternoon, Dale and I spent the night at the JW Marriott in Cairo, since we were heading for El Gouna on Thursday. The JW -What a place! http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/caijw-jw-marriott-hotel-cairo/
It is so huge, it would take an hour or more to walk around the grounds – and that doesn’t include the 18 hole golf course. They have a spa, several swimming pools, a wave pool, shops, restaurants, etc. The staff are delightful, and so eager to help you. The complete decadence is so far from the reality of Road 9, with the begging and poverty. It doesn’t seem like you are even in the same country let alone the same city. Then there is El Gouna . . . more to come!
Love,
Laurel

July 9, 2007

Yesterday I hit the gym for the first time in a month - ouch! The CSA - Community Service Association is usually a hang out for ex-pats, but right now it is very quiet since many people are away. It is not too far (15 min.) so I get a good walk to get there and then I get to use muscles that forgot what they are. I went again today for an orientation to their Easy Line class which is similar to Curves, but not as much equipment. I think I'll stick to the gym for a bit. When I am done, I get honked at continuously from taxis who want the fare, but I see no point in getting a ride to or from a work-out - even though it would only cost $.60 - but I am a bit tempted in the heat. So as you see, I am finding my way around easier each time I go out.
Everything else is pretty quiet, so I am catching up on some reading. I did order the book The Lizard Cage for September's Book Club reading, but don't know if I'll have any luck. They said it would be in tomorrow, but that was already two days ago. They want to please, so they say what you want to hear, but it doesn't always work. I may have to pick it up when I come home in September, but I will keep asking for it whenever I am near the book store.
Meanwhile, keep in touch, and I will continue to let you know what is going on in this little corner of the world.
Love,
Laurel
p.s. I found the perfect chocolate for here that you can carry with you. It comes in a small tube, and it is already liquid, so you don't have to worry about it melting. Just squeeze it out. Cadbury makes it - it is called Chixo. Brilliant.

July 6, 2007

The highlight of yesterday was finding my way home from the grocery store. I got directions from Cathy for a new store and headed off just like I knew what I was doing. I overshot, but asked directions from a lady who looked English, and found the object of my search. Unfortunately, when exiting, I thought that the street on the left was parallel to the street on the right. Big mistake! Thank goodness some taxi drivers speak a little English. I got pointed in the right direction, and found my way home - albeit a lot longer route than to get there, but home none the less.
Today at church I met Jamie and Janet, who are students from New Jersey and Massachusetts. They have been here one month out of their year program. I also met Jen, who is a Physio-Therapist from New Zealand. She has been here for 3 months and is staying/working for another 3 months. We went out for a lovely lunch, and exchanged phone numbers with the idea of joining a cell group through the Church. Then Jen and I went for a walk, and she showed me around Ma'adi, and a way to get to the Corniche without having to take a taxi. We also went to a store called Khalifa that is famous for their rice pudding (good - but not like Mom's), that I don't think I will be able to find again. All in all, it was a very freeing experience. It really extended my boundaries which were feeling so restrictive. I think I will strike out again tomorrow and test my memory.
So, if you get the urge to come and visit, I can take you all sorts of places. And if tomorrow works out, I can get you back home again too.
Love,
Laurel

July 4, 2007

Hello everyone. I have survived the 1/2 century mark fairly unscathed. It was made so much more bearable and less formidable by everyone's kind sentiments and greetings. Telephones and emails are a real life-line, and I even received a text message. Bless you all, and thanks so much for being there. Some of the ecards are hilarious. What a neat era we live in.

I had a lovely lunch with Cathy, who is the wife of Stephen Baldry who works for the same company as Dale. She arrived bearing a beautiful bouquet of flowers, and a very cheery smile. I then spent a very full afternoon on the computer, laughing and crying over emails etc. from my delightful friends and family. What a treat. I was then invited out to dinner with some of Dale's colleagues, and it was very nice to put faces to names. David had even ordered me a cake and they sang Happy Birthday. It was not according to the plan, but was a lovely alternative.

I spent today back at the Khan al-Khalili market with Cathy, who wasn't keen on going at first, but was such a good sport to accompany me. It is much more comfortable to go with someone. We had a lovely time, and did some very tough bargaining. It is very lively entertainment to work your way through the market - some of the comments are unbelievable. (Hey lady, its OK, I am married - I just want your money!) Cathy had been once before and found it too crowded, but we went during the day which is supposedly saner. It is one of those 24-7 places, which actually gets more crowded from 10pm to 1am. Dale bought me a beautiful bracelet which I will show him when he gets home tonight. We also bought a couple of very brightly coloured scarves. We didn't stay too long, as it doesn't take long for the heat to get to you. Even with all the hustling and trying to get your attention, I find the people very friendly, energetic and fun. I would like to go back at least once more before we leave. Hopefully Dale will get a couple of weeks off at some point or another, and we can go a bit further afield too.

So for now, bless you all and thanks again.

Love,

Laurel

p.s. http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weather/EGXX0004

Camels to the Pyramids of Giza

Oh dark thirty. That is what it takes to catch the red sunrise and feel the sense of the desert coming to life. We had a wonderful guide who kept touching his heart to ensure we had good feelings for the morning and the event. Sceptical, as most seem to want the mighty buck, we eventually felt his sincerity and his true love of horses, camels, his desert and his country. The ride was not comfy especially for Dale, but the event was worth it in everyway. As you see the photos, you should appreciate that we were there before the day really started and we were sort of trespassing through the desert, negotiating with various police and guards along the way. It seemed that the guide would ride ahead and meet the authority who is rushing toward us and pointing at us to go back. Our second guide would stop, then when pressured would slowly turn us around and advance as if to leave.. then we stop... wait... more negotiations. Then once the guard was able to ensure his authority was respected, we would turn around and continue to the next photo spot -feeling like we were just lucky this time. How many years, has this type of tour been happening like this? The second guide claims he has been doing this for more than 25!

Well, Laurel got her wish and put her foot on the pyramid. The size of the stones and the amount of rolling desert surrounding the 9 pyramids was a significant visual impact. We are so lucky to have this opportunity. After two hours the sun was showing its potential to bake, so we returned in a nice cool cab and stopped at a local Egyptian fast food take-out joint for a delicious falafel. 40 cents each but worthy of great praise.

Hope this finds everyone healthy and happy.

Love,

Dale and Laurel

Happy Canada Day! from Cairo! Laurel and I had a surprise breakfast with Adam as his schedule changed and he had a few hours in Cairo. Next time will be on the 3rd of July where he will host his Mom on her big birthday. Sadly, I am unable to attend. Aviation sucks sometimes. But making the most of it we are celebrating Laurel's Timemark in grand fashion throughout the month of July. For example this afternoon we traveled to the coolest old city style market you can find. Khan el-Khalili http://www.touregypt.net/khan.htm To quote - this is not just any market, but one of the most historic of any market in the world. Founded by the Emir Djaharks el-Khalili in 1382, this Khan was responsible for developing such a stranglehold on goods moving from the Eastern world to the West, that it is directly responsible for the discovery of the American continent. The spice markets in the Khan, a monopoly controlled by the ruling Mamluks of Egypt, forced explorers such as Columbus to find alternate routes for goods coming from the East.
Even today, the Khan el-Khalili is not strictly an Egyptian market, nor is it a a market for tourists only. Indeed, goods from all over the world seem to arrive here, and amongst its alley ways and off streets, one will find more Egyptian shoppers than tourists, buying everything from American jeans to fine gold jewelry.

From there in stark contrast we enjoyed a wonderful 4PM Lunch on a lakeside Restaurant in beautiful Al-Azhar Park. This reclaimed garbage dump is truly a spectacular park as the photos show.

Tomorrow we are up at 4AM for a trip to the Pyramids. Stay Tuned... D&L